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3D Printing Problems and Resources

On this page I want to go over some common 3D printing problems and also give you some links to priceless information I’ve found. None of the links are my content and None of them are affiliate links so I don’t get any sort of compensation.

Websites and books

First, here’s the best tuning guide around. You’ll hear this guide mentioned a lot in 3D printing circles.

https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide

Here’s a good book showing you how to fix most problems:

https://www.amazon.com/3D-Printing-Failures-Diagnose-Desktop/dp/B09NH3BB9F/

These are my favorite 3D printing YouTube channels:

CNC Kitchen https://youtube.com/@CNCKitchen?si=X_Ore6xBCOzk0mn7

MandicReally https://youtube.com/@MandicReally?si=mfQBcMkrZkiUknKx

3D Printing Nerd https://youtube.com/@3DPrintingNerd?si=1achJMhGLmEFq1nm

WildRoseBuilds https://youtube.com/@WildRoseBuilds?si=TqhfEfGhemUo_zRJ

Z binding and wobble

Two separate things but both VERY frustrating. Z binding is where the X Gantry isn’t moving smoothly because there is something off on the lead screws, couplers or motion system (pom wheels or linear rails). Usually you can spot bent lead screw pretty easy. The fix is to replace them with new ones. You can get a set for $15 on Amazon. Just make sure you get the right length. Also make sure the stock couplers have a little play in them, they shouldn’t be completely tight. I recommend Oldham couplers that will let the screw move in all directions.

Z wobble is where your prints have visible bands due to the z motion being transfered to the print. Here’s a great video about z wobble:

Heat Soaking

This applies more to large scale printer than small ones. If you start a long print as soon as the bed gets to the set temperature there is a good chance you’re going to get an uneven first layer or problems shortly after that. As the bed sits at temp it will expand quite a bit. Sometimes up to two layer heights. The solution is you should let the bed sit at temp for 30 to 45 minutes before doing a bed mesh… and yes you should do a mesh for every print. The new eddy current scanners make a mesh possible in minutes. Here’s a good video explaining the whole thing: